Tuesday, 19 December 2017

Carrot, celery and fenugreek soup

I made this based on what I had in my fridge, my garden and my cupboards and it turned out lovely, so I thought I'd put in on my blog. This is vegan if made with a vegan stock cube. I think it would probably also be pretty good without liquidising.
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion
most of a pack of celery (I used 4 sticks for something else)
1 tsp ground fenugreek
8 large carrots
1 vegetable or chicken stock cube
salt and pepper to taste
boiling water

1. Put the olive oil in a large pan over a medium heat.
2. Peel and chop the onion (fairly fine), then add to the pan and stir.
3. Chop the celery, discarding any tough ends and any leaves.
4. Add the celery to the pan. Add the fenugreek to the pan. Stir.
5. Peel and chop the carrots. Add to the pan.
6. Add the stock cube and salt and pepper to taste. Stir, then add enough boiling water to just cover.
7. Simmer for 20 minutes.
8. Leave to cool until cool enough for your blender, then liquidise until smooth.
9. If necessary, reheat to serve.

Saturday, 16 December 2017

How to make your own wooden compost bin (with design plans)

My other half made me a new compost bin for Christmas. Partly because he didn't like the look of the old one, partly because I'd already filled it to overflowing and needed more room. I know it's not Christmas yet, but he installed it early for me.
He made it from scratch based on some photos he found on the Internet with a few adaptations. Here's are his design plans:

You can click on the photos to see them in full size so you can see the numbers better. The lengths were largely based on the size of planks he bought.

Labour aside, it was actually pretty expensive to make because he used new landscaping timber. This has the advantage of being pressure treated, which means it should last longer. There seems to be some disagreement on the Internet about what forms of wood it is OK to make your compost bin out of. Untreated timber is definitely OK and cheaper, but might have a shorter life. Apparently old treated timber often used to contain arsenic, so should be avoided, as should any creosoted wood. We think it's OK to use modern pressure treated timber (and that's what we did), but different sources seem to disagree, partly due to the difficulty of ascertaining what the wood has been pressure treated with.
Here are some instruction on how he put the compost bin together with photos:


1. Measure the pieces of wood and mark with the correct lengths and cut angles.
2. Measure again (measure twice, cut once), then cut the pieces of wood to length making sure you cut the wood at the correct angles (some cuts need to be at 45 degrees). We used a mitre saw.
3. Screw each of the planks that make up the back of the compost bin to the piece of 2x4 that will connect it to the side. Make sure you space them correctly.
4. Screw the other side of each of the planks that make up the back of the compost bin to the piece of 2x4 that will connect it to the other side.

 5. Screw the piece of 2x4 that sits close to the front of the compost bin to the planks of wood that will make up the side. Make sure that you space the planks correctly and also leave enough wood in front of the 2x4 to be able to screw on the parallelograms of wood.
6. Do the same for the planks that will make up the other side.
7. Screw the triangle and parallelograms of wood that will hold the front slats to one of the sides (on the same side as the beam you screwed together - make sure they're the right way up).
8. Do the same to the other side.
9. Screw one side of the compost bin to the appropriate beam that you already used to screw the back together.
10. Do the same on the other side.
 
11. Move the compost bin into position, then add the slats. Do not screw them in, they're intentionally removable.

Ideally the other half would have liked to put another removable slat at the top, but he didn't order enough timber to include that. You'd also need another triangle of wood (like the one at the bottom) to hold the slat of wood in place.
We fitted our compost bin over the pile of compost I'd already made in the old plastic bin.
We removed the uncomposted material at the top first to make it easier to get the frame over it, then put it back in afterwards, plus I added some of the extra stuff I hadn't had room for before.

One of the things I like about my new wooden compost bin is it's easier to see how far the material at the bottom has composted. I'm hoping it should also be easier to get it out than it was from the old plastic bin.

The garden doesn't look its best at this time of year, but it looks a lot better with the new compost bin than it did with the old one, and more importantly, I now have room for more compost. I'll be freecycling the old compost bin later.

Monday, 4 December 2017

Things it's worth knowing when buying your first greenhouse

I wasn't expecting to love my greenhouse as much as I do. I knew I wanted one, but I thought I wanted it for purely practical purposes. I wasn't expecting the joy it would bring.
The greenhouse came when we decided it was time to get a new shed, to replace the one that had practically fallen apart, so our greenhouse is part of a shed/greenhouse combination. This both saves space and is highly aesthetically pleasing - especially compared to the mishmash of non-matching shapes I was originally assuming I'd have to have if I bought shed and greenhouse separately.
Unlike many standalone greenhouses, instead of being built straight over the soil, this one is over a concrete base that came with the garden, so this one has a wood floor instead of opening straight onto the soil. This looks very pretty, but has an impractical side in that I tend to water the floor by accident when watering my plants. If it weren't for the existing concrete base, I'd have preferred one straight onto the soil. To deal with the wood floor, so far I've put trays and plastic sheeting under the shelves of plants (it's a shame I didn't measure before buying the first one, two of the longer ones would have been the perfect length).

I've also varnished the book cases I'm using as shelves for my plants with outdoor varnish, as these were starting to get water damaged. I intend to varnish the floor before I start putting plants in next year as well. If I'd known then what I know now, I'd probably have varnished the floor before I put any plants or shelves in at all (and then still bought the plastic trays). You can also buy purpose-made greenhouse shelving instead of using old book cases. Varnishing them took ages. On the other hand, because we already had them, they were free apart from the varnish. And they do look nice.

Another problem I discovered with the shed-greenhouse combo was that unlike a conventional greenhouse, there was little scope to cool the greenhouse down. It has no vents in the roof and only a small window that can be opened. I put a temperature data logger in to record the temperatures, and it already reached well over 40° by mid-May. What we did to solve this was to add a cabin hook, so the door can now be propped open without any risk of it blowing about in the wind and smashing the glass. I'm not sure if this is as effective as a ceiling vent, but it certainly helped.

The problem with leaving the and window open for ventilation though, is that it gives pests an opportunity to come in. This resulted in an infestation or two for us:
These are hell to deal with, especially if you're growing food, as there's so little you can spray at them. I initially kept the infestation down by crushing pests I saw between finger and thumb. I later discovered that taking all the plants out of the greenhouse and leaving them outdoors for a few days reduced the number of pests I had (this probably won't work for all pests in all climates).
I also need to completely empty and thoroughly clean the greenhouse before I put next year's plants in to remove any eggs that might have been left. I'm also thinking of buying a mesh screen door to keep insects out. I'm hoping that one you use for a house door will work, as that would be cheapest and most practical, plus I'll need an extra bit of mesh for the window. I don't know for certain if that will work, especially as my greenhouse is far from airtight around the corrugated roof, but I have hope and think it's worth a try. Edited: I tried, it was a bad idea. I kept the pollinating insects out with it, so had to hand pollinate, but the aphids still got in anyhow.
Another lesson I learnt is that tomatoes are incredibly thirsty plants, so although I grew each tomato plant in a pot that I'm pretty sure was bigger than a growbag, I still ended up watering them two or three times a day on hot days. In the end I decided to put them in large plastic crates. I haven't yet decided whether to drill holes in the bottom of the crates or rely on my ability not to over-water them. I think I'm going to try it without holes first, so I can return the crates to their original purpose later if I want.
Another lesson I learnt is that this sort of greenhouse is very pleasant for sitting in and reading, so it was well worth while leaving plenty of room for a chair and cushion. I got more joy from the chair than I think I could have done from extra plants - despite my love of plants.



And while we're talking about space, goodness do plants grow and need more room than you might think. I originally thought I was going to need another shelving unit for the end section where I grew the tomatoes. In reality, the tomatoes needed so much space an extra shelf would have been in the way.
Another lesson, that you can see partially implemented above is that plants look a lot nicer when they're all in uniform terracotta pots. I originally used what I had, which was fine in terms of housing the plants, but I was lucky enough to spot a really cheap offer for large terracotta pots at Wilko's. So next year I'll be using all the nice, matching terracotta pots I bought there for my plants' final pot. If they grow bigger than that, they'll just have to lump it, unless I find an offer for bigger pots.

Finally, I learnt that my most practical plants in terms of yield were the Cheyenne F1 chilli pepper and my Moneymaker tomatoes.

But the ones I loved the best were the purple ones.